Painting Rocks – Model Trains Part 25 “A”

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ATSF1317 says:

Looks good so far.

Dan

bnsf6951 says:

hey Robert… that looks fantastic & i didn't take very long… thanks for sharing
vinny

efitter7 says:

Looks great Robert! If my memory serves correct, I read somewhere that you need to seal the pigments otherwise they will fade. Are you just using white glue and water to do this? Thanks for sharing.
Ethan

Robert Sacco says:

looking real good

John Prescott says:

Looking great!

trainroomgary says:

First class demo on painting rocks made from plaster. Cheers from Michigan.

PennCentral99 says:

Great job, Mate!

Lakeside model railway says:

You made that look so easy and a very good demo on how to do it, thanks for sharing. ?………..Graham

DG Modelworks says:

Looking good!!!!

WIDI 1956 says:

Hey Robert, looks great, nice job it made it "pop". Have fun!!!
Bob,? Longshadowsmodeltrees.com
:{)

modeltrainfanatic98 says:

I like how you are showing how you painted the rocks, I can't wait to see the outcome
~ Jaylon

MrChoochoo says:

I've been watching your videos. I'm really impressed. It's very hard to believe your claim that you're just learning as you go. The results are so good. Surely with something like the rock painting you must have experimented off screen until you came up with this method? Or do you do what we all do and gather ideas from others? Whatever, I love your work. Thanks for sharing……….David (UK)

MRLTrains says:

I'm enjoying watching your progress. I need to get back to working on my layout. Keep up the good work!

struck2soon says:

Think you were supposed to seal the first colours with sprayed on scenic cement before putting the black on. That would have made the black just run into the cracks.

speedfreak1983 says:

Your rocks look really great. Do you use woodland molds or have you made the molds yourself / or another brand??
I have only experimented slightly With colors at the time, but I can say that you should try on a seperate piece adding some colors (washes) and try several coats With black Wash. Let it dry and take a picture between each coat so you can look at the different collor effects after. Then you can decide if you are happy With the collors on Your layout without the danger of "over dooing it"?first. I thought I had screwed up on my trial piece With to strong collors but after two 1:10 black washes and one?1:5 black Wash it turned out much bettter than i thought possible.?( I had a light grey base before any washes) ?I would imagine Scenic cement is the last thing to?go on top but this of coarse Depends on what result you look for. Only 5 million possible answers to that question.
Keep up the good work!?Cheers JC.?

Michael Lake says:

I've been using wall joint compound to do what you've done, but the paint seems to be absorbed differently between the plaster casted rocks and the wall joint compound. Plaster absorbs paint differently (better) than wall joint compound. It ended up looking vary fake around the rocks. How did you get your painting to look so even between the plaster and WJC?

maurie Maher says:

looks good mate i will try this my self i have csx bnsf and up?

ULC35 says:

Good demonstration..

William Koester says:

Are you in Australia or New Zealand ?

Robert5185 says:

WS is definitely the way to go, but may not be the most economical in all aspects.? Nice layout.

Roman Vision says:

how did you make those rock formations

eukaryon says:

Excellent work on the rock formations. I think is it more realistic with the color washes blending together.

Richard Fickess says:

I do like the choice in rock formation and colors, although I do mine a bit different. Those colors are very expensive. At Walmart or other retailers, you can get same kind of paint for only 99 cents. I use a light grey first, then burnt umber and followed with a very diluted black. I get many comments on how I got rocks on my layout and they are blown away when I say they're not real.

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